{"id":4843,"date":"2023-10-24T08:53:41","date_gmt":"2023-10-24T08:53:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blogs.futura-sciences.com\/luminet\/?p=4843"},"modified":"2025-08-29T18:24:21","modified_gmt":"2025-08-29T18:24:21","slug":"la-vallee-des-10-00-fumees-alaska-9-9","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blogs.futura-sciences.com\/luminet\/2023\/10\/24\/la-vallee-des-10-00-fumees-alaska-9-9\/","title":{"rendered":"La Vall\u00e9e des 10 00 Fum\u00e9es, Alaska (9\/9)"},"content":{"rendered":"
Suite du billet La Vall\u00e9e des 10 00 Fum\u00e9es, Alaska (8\/9)<\/a> et fin
\n<\/strong><\/h5>\n
Carnet de voyage d\u2019une exp\u00e9dition effectu\u00e9e du 17 ao\u00fbt au 7 septembre 1992 en Alaska<\/strong><\/h5>\n

La vall\u00e9e des Dix Mille Fum\u00e9es (Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes) <\/span><\/i>est situ\u00e9e en Alaska, au\u00a0 Sud du parc national de Katmai.\u00a0 Elle tire son nom des nombreux panaches de vapeur d\u2019eau qui s\u2019\u00e9chappaient du sol form\u00e9 par l\u2019\u00e9ruption du volcan Novrupta en 1912. Accessible seulement apr\u00e8s deux jours de marche \u00e0 partir de Brooks Lodge \u2013 un camp tenu par des rangers-, elle offre des paysages extraordinaires. Avec un groupe de amis nous avons d\u00e9cid\u00e9 de l\u2019explorer sac \u00e0 dos et en autonomie compl\u00e8te durant l\u2019\u00e9t\u00e9 1992.<\/p>\n

Participants:<\/strong><\/p>\n

Philippe A., m\u00e9decin psychiatre
\nArturo F., ing\u00e9nieur
\nMarc L., astrophysicien
\nJean-Pierre Luminet, astrophysicien
\nDidier P., astronome.<\/p>\n

DERNIER EPISODE : 5-11 septembre<\/h5>\n

Samedi 5 septembre<\/strong><\/p>\n

R\u00e9veil \u00e0 8h, d\u00e9part \u00e0 12h. Temps pluvieux. Marche en direction de Three Forks. Affreuse douleur au pied gauche, dont le petit orteil est infect\u00e9.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Un dernier regard sur la Vall\u00e9e des 10 000 fum\u00e9es, d\u00e9coup\u00e9e comme au couteau par le canyon du L\u00e9th\u00e9<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Apr\u00e8s le sable et la cendre, la for\u00eat<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Nous passons dans une for\u00eat. Cueillette de champignons – des c\u00e8pes. Arriv\u00e9e \u00e0 Three Forks \u00e0 15h20. On fait cuire nos c\u00e8pes\u00a0: un r\u00e9gal\u00a0!<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Cuisson de nos c\u00e8pes au refuge de Three Forks<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Plut\u00f4t fiers de nous, nous nous faisons tirer les portraits \u00e0 Three Forks devant la Vall\u00e9e des 10 000 Fum\u00e9es<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Le soir deux filles arrivent au refuge avec des v\u00e9los tout terrain. Nuit glaciale et inconfortable. Les pieds me br\u00fblent durant la nuit.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Dimanche 6 septembre<\/strong><\/p>\n

D\u00e9part vers Brooks Camp \u00e0 9h. Intol\u00e9rables douleurs de pieds. Les trois travers\u00e9es de rivi\u00e8re les rafra\u00eechissent heureusement un peu. Il fait tr\u00e8s beau.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Un beau chemin de retour<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Une derni\u00e8re travers\u00e9e de rivi\u00e8re, qui nous para\u00eet maintenant facile<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Campement \u00e0 mi-chemin (19 km), dans la mousse. Tr\u00e8s agr\u00e9able. Soleil, champignons, feu.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Dernier bivouac en for\u00eat, feu et champignons<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Dernier bivouac en for\u00eat, feu et champignons<\/p>\n

Lundi 7 septembre<\/strong><\/p>\n

D\u00e9part 8h45. Derni\u00e8re \u00e9tape. Le pied va un peu mieux. Les 19 km sur le sentier rocailleux dans la for\u00eat sont quand m\u00eame harassants, mais la journ\u00e9e est belle.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
En vue du lac Naknek<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Arriv\u00e9e \u00e0 Brooks Camp \u00e0 13h20. Nous pesons nos sacs, qui sont tous descendus autour de 17 kg. Comme ils nous paraissent maintenant l\u00e9gers\u00a0!<\/p>\n

Les rangers nous interrogent. L\u2019un deux nous soup\u00e7onne d\u2019avoir fait br\u00fbler des bois de caribou et des feuilles d\u2019aluminium, c\u2019est absurde\u00a0!<\/p>\n

\u00c9norme plat\u00e9e de champignons au camping. Des Am\u00e9ricains nous regardent manger l\u2019air perplexe, ils semblent se rassembler autour de nous comme pour assister \u00e0 notre intoxication et \u00e0 notre agonie\u00a0! Visiblement ils ne connaissent rien aux champignons.<\/p>\n

Nous avan\u00e7ons par t\u00e9l\u00e9phone le retour de l\u2019avion pour le lendemain 8 (il \u00e9tait initialement pr\u00e9vu le 10), et nous attendons impatiemment 18h, l\u2019heure du d\u00eener. C\u2019est un buffet somptueux \u00e0 l\u2019am\u00e9ricaine, c\u2019est-\u00e0-dire du type \u00ab\u00a0all you can eat\u00a0\u00bb, avec crudit\u00e9s, saumon, rosbeef, fruits, cheesecake, etc., le tout \u00e0 volont\u00e9. On se dit qu\u2019apr\u00e8s tous ces jours de r\u00e9gime on va s\u2019en mettre jusque-l\u00e0, on s\u2019offre deux bouteilles de vin et on commence \u00e0 s\u2019empiffrer. Mais \u00e0 peine avons-nous ingurgit\u00e9 une petite assiette de coleslaw, une tranche de saumon et une autre de rosbif que l\u2019on s\u2019arr\u00eate tous les cinq en se regardant\u00a0: nous sommes d\u00e9j\u00e0 rassasi\u00e9s. Notre estomac a tellement r\u00e9tr\u00e9ci durant ces 15 jours de privations qu\u2019\u00e0 peine rempli, notre ventre se tend au point de nous faire mal\u00a0!<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

A 20h nous allons \u00e9couter une remarquable conf\u00e9rence de Rick, le ranger rencontr\u00e9 trois semaines auparavant \u00e0 Three Forks. Nuit lourde.<\/p>\n

Mardi 8 septembre<\/strong><\/p>\n

R\u00e9veil \u00e0 7h. Sacs pr\u00e9par\u00e9s \u00e0 9h pour l\u2019avion de 15h. Les fins d\u2019exp\u00e9dition sont toujours d\u00e9primantes. Pour compenser nous allons \u00e0 Brooks Falls photographier les ours.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Puis nous encha\u00eenons Brooks Camp \u2013 King Salmon par hydravion et King Salmon-Anchorage par Air Alaska. Superbes vues a\u00e9riennes.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Vues a\u00e9riennes. A gauche, rivi\u00e8res et lacs. A droite, le Denali (ex. Mc Kinley), point culminant de l\u2019Am\u00e9rique du Nord \u00e0 6190 m.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

9-11 Septembre<\/strong><\/p>\n

Le vol retour pour la France \u00e9tant pr\u00e9vu le 12, cela nous laisse du temps de louer une voiture \u00e0 Anchorage et d\u2019aller visiter la p\u00e9ninsule du Kenai jusqu\u2019\u00e0 Homer (gigantesques usines de cong\u00e9lation de poissons).<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Apr\u00e8s l\u2019aventure du Katmai, nous nous contentons d\u2019aller en voiture visiter la p\u00e9ninsule de Kenai, jusqu\u2019\u00e0 Homer.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Apr\u00e8s l\u2019aventure du Katmai, nous nous contentons d\u2019aller en voiture visiter la p\u00e9ninsule de Kenai, jusqu\u2019\u00e0 Homer.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
La baie de Kachemak dans la p\u00e9ninsule du Kenai<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\"\"<\/a>Nous sommes devenus tellement fanatiques des jeux de cartes qu\u2019\u00e0 l\u2019escale de Houston, le 12, nous jouons \u00e0 la belote assis par terre dans le hall d\u2019embarquement !<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Notre terrain de jeu…
<\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

FIN <\/strong><\/p>\n

PROCHAIN RECIT :<\/strong> TRAVERSEE DE L’ISLANDE 1982<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Suite du billet La Vall\u00e9e des 10 00 Fum\u00e9es, Alaska (8\/9) et fin Carnet de voyage d\u2019une exp\u00e9dition effectu\u00e9e du 17 ao\u00fbt au 7 septembre 1992 en Alaska La vall\u00e9e des Dix Mille Fum\u00e9es (Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes) est situ\u00e9e en Alaska, au\u00a0 Sud du parc national de Katmai.\u00a0 Elle tire son nom des … Continuer la lecture de La Vall\u00e9e des 10 00 Fum\u00e9es, Alaska (9\/9)<\/span> →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":4920,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","_links_to":"","_links_to_target":""},"categories":[719],"tags":[720,729,722,724,731,726,721],"class_list":["post-4843","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-voyages","tag-alaska","tag-champignons","tag-expedition","tag-katmai","tag-kenai","tag-ours","tag-vallee-des-10-000-fumees"],"yoast_head":"\nLa Vall\u00e9e des 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